Toasty hints of brioche, coffee liqueur and vanilla bean on the nose are more subtle on the palate of this plush-textured Champagne, where flavors of persimmon, yellow peach, blanched almond and Mandarin orange peel are underscored by minerally saline and chalk. Shows lovely balance and length.

This is a 70-30 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir grown in clay-limestone soils. The components come from harvests in 2014 through ’16, the wines aged 10 months in foudre. It’s spicy in its structure and lasting in its fruit, with flavors ranging from the red blush of pear skin to orange and dry pineapple. Powerful, generous and still tight, this should develop well over the next several years.

The NV Brut Grand Cellier is a classy, super-polished wine from Vilmart. Bright, effusive aromatics and generous citrus flavors abound. Marzipan, chamomile, dried flowers and sage lend complexity to this beautifully defined edition of the Grand Cellier.